You Say Garbonzo, I say Garvanza
by Pasadena Adjacent
I live in what is called a “Historic Preservation Overlay Zone” An older Los Angeles neighborhood that gets it’s name from the mispronunciation of a bean. Ours is a community of terraced houses, rolling hillsides and winding streets. Although other hilly hoods such as Echo Park are more readily known for their many concrete wonders:(Hidden Stairways) I’d like it to go on record that we here in the Highlands have quite a few of our own. I plan on being your guide.
Garvanza Hillside Stairway, originally uploaded by Access Palm 2009.
These stairways are artifacts of a time before the automobile. Real estate developers built them as a means to get people to the hillside properties they eagerly wished to profit from. This particular and seldom used concrete pathway begins at the top of Lantana St and concludes at Ave 64. Note the “Church of Angels” which can be spotted in my Wee Video production.
Just a tad south of this Mission Revival home by architect Charles Henry Greenshaw (I refer to it as Van De Kamp Dutch Revival); is where our journey begins. I once went to a garage sale here and bought a Donna Fargo tape while Mr V scored with a set of miniature hand made Conestoga wagons. Like you care.
We pass by this 1870’s Gothic Revival house (origin of construction noise) which wasrecently moved here from Chinatown. Once owned by former Los Angeles Mayor Prudent Beaudry (who ironically also held land in this area). Beaudry eventually sold his 2,200 acres section of Garvanza (north of Meridian) to Alexander Cambell-Johnston whose wife would go on to build Church of the Angels. “Said church” was later annexed by Pasadena. Garvanzans say “stolen” as this was against their wishes (and hers).
This boxy Victorian was also moved from Chinatown and onto another Ave 64 property, north of the Baudrey home. The back barn is not historical but rather a faux creation of sorts. The alarmingly white abode is part of a larger 1.25 acre property that also contains the historically recognized Workman’s Cottages. They’re connected to the construction of the Church of Angels located across the street. When I moved into the area in 1996, the above property had been recently purchased and was then considered Highland Park. The owner restored the cottages receiving a 1998 Highland Park Heritage Trust award for his efforts. Now the property seems to be within Pasadena’s jurisdiction having recently won their “adjacents” Golden Trowel gardening award. Edges are blurry around here.
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Pasadena Adjacent 
Installment Seventeen of my series examining the “Secret, Feral and Concrete”
Garvanza was a part of the Rancho San Rafael land grant. Legend has it that the abundant garbonzo bean for which the community takes it’s name, was first planted by Don Julio Verdugo in 1833 who built a adobe nearby. Later, “the adobe was abandoned, but the garbanzos flourished and spread” author unknown. I have yet to come across this plant.
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What a neat find…hidden stairways and sidewalks? Who would imagine. And the best one (as seen on your hidden stairwys link) has to be the Music Box Steps used in that hilarious Laural & Hardy piano moving scene. I’ve undoubtedly also seen it in a 3 Stooges caper. You have a Gothic Revival, a Greek Revival, and that third house?, it looks like a Plain Box Revival, no idea what it would be called.
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I always wanted 2 know where the garbanzo bean originated from! All the other info you provide here is just whipped cream on my mocha.
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Boarding house revival?
Your neighborhood is fascinating. I’ve walked it several times, but never knew about those stairs. Or the history behind the houses — though I often wondered. Great place to mosey around; great tour. (Are you serious about the name?)
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I just made hummus with some garvanza beans last night.
You have the most interesting neighborhood.
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Loved the stairs. Would suffer with knees in order to climb those steps. Even the weeds look pretty. I don’t know how you know all those architects!
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Garvanza fiends unite! I have homemade hummus in the fridge as well. I read the article you quote the garvanza source from. It’s nice to get to know you a little better this way, sounds like a great place to reside – especially knowing it’s roots.
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I totally love this! You are a great guide. My HS boyfriend lived somewhere near where you are now, up a very steep hill from Meridian. I remember the church, I never knew about the historical building, cuz what I loved about the neighborhood back then the standard American, middle class homes.
I am so glad you are preserving what the area looks like today. I still cannot find a good color photo of the old, and truly beautiful Burbank Jr. High building. At least they preserved Marshall High School.
Garvanza always sounded so fun to me – like extravaganza!
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Nice. You going to do that Echo Park Walks tour?
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Nice bit of a tour there. I had no idea about Garbanzo bean roots of it all.
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My dearest friend; love you and miss you always 2/19/2000
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Open this “recently Moved here” link if you wish to view photos of the Beaudry house being transported to it’s new location.
These are some links that allow you to see the homes at a distance from in front of the Church of the Angels
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4370671724_590585a51a_b.jpg
and looking up the sidewalk
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4011/4370624364_0b88690896_b.jpg
D: These stairways used to be very common but my understanding is that the majority are gone. They often remain disguised because they tend to look like someone’s driveway. I actually had a friend who once lived on the Music Box street. That stair way is the only way you can reach those homes. You have to park at the bottom. Can you imagine carrying in groceries?
CO: Happy to supply the cream.
AH: True story (about the bean) at least thats what the research team came up. I think it may be the same man whose been buying that block up one house at a time. The duplex at the n/w corner of Church Street is also one of his properties that he fixed up. Just wish he’d ditch the urns on the boxy Victorian and paint it a cream color (maybe) and let the trim remain white. Oh, and those fast growing sycamores in front of the duplex. Pretty now, plumbing bills down the line
Susan: We should all start calling Garbonzo beans Garvanza beans. Wait till I tell you the origins of another popular street. I can almost guess you won’t have used that key ingredient in your dip.
Beck: I’ll take you. Yes, I think Floyde over at the Big Orange Landmark taught me a thing or two plus I did a little research on my own. I always referred to the Mission revival house as neo Van Dee Camp.
PJ: So you went off rail and did some research on your own? My area is turning hip and I’m a little surprised. I’m also pleased too. I’ve been thinking about doing some posts of the area and with these beautiful clear days..well it works in my favor. More concrete stairs to come.
Tash: I am giving a tour of the biggest and the best here in the Highlands but there are other places I plan to place into my blog (I haven’t even touched upon the Arts and Crafts movement) or the current and local gallery scene. The youngins are all green boheems and this is one of their leaders; Claire Graham (as well as my foundry instructor when I was at CSLB). He yelled at me once because I showed up at a bronze pour wearing sandals. I’m an idiot.
http://www.latimesmagazine.com/2009/08/clare-graham.html
Re: boyfriend, On Meridian between Fig and 64 are several streets heading north (mine included). But the steepest by far is Marie street. Sheila below you in the comment thread was a graduate of Marshal.
Sheila: I’ve been experiencing some knee issues so I don’t think I will but I plan on sending you some links on the subject I discovered in research. I think you’ll be surprised and maybe even homesick.
Margaret: Do you ever go visit Highland Park? I was recently in your neighborhood and found a Italian joint called Geonese(?) have you been?
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Hello neighbor. I was out driving around our hilly winding Highlands (love that term) today taking some photos. It really is spectacular around here and always a real surprise to those who come over for the first time.
Our two story home/studio is on a steep downslope, but we have level access to the street, which is a good thing since I don’t do stairs very well. I don’t think we could match this VIEW anywhere at any price. I found it when I was driving to our house that we rented from my storefront studio on Figueroa. Being here and working here has changed my art work completely. You really must come over soon.
Church of The Angels is a great place to go hear music. It is like a trip to Europe. So gorgeous in there. Very medieval.
Great tour!
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Oops, I mis-spelled blogspot on the website part of my comment. This one should work, and I hope those of you who haven’t stopped by will take a look at more of the area!
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(I remember a post you did about a friend.)
Two things: You are so right about the color — that would make all the difference. Why not send him a note — couldn’t hurt.
Sycamores are beautiful and beauty comes at a price.
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I live near Garvanza, have seen the sign and wondered about it for a long time. Now I’m going to have to go out and make a tour myself and peek at the stairs and the walkways. Thanks for the history lesson and the tour!
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I’m going to bore people to death with all the new information you’ve just given me. But it’s so interesting to get to know Extragarvanza, and I can’t wait to run up those stairs!
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Shanna: I look forward to hearing about your storefront studio. HP is especially beautiful this time of year with bits of undeveloped space and a certain kind of funk. And I must say, our “View” over the rail road trellis from the Goldline, is the most spectacular.
I’m also interested in how you find out about musical events at the Church of Angels. I’ve seen images of the interior. Divine woodwork.
AH: Strange..at the moment of her death I was purchasing a plant (time marked on the receipt). Most of my plants have died but this one is thriving. And yes about the Sycamores. The fellow has put in two such trees on a postage size front lawn. I hate seeing trees executed because they were the wrong choice. I think I might plant a Sycamore at the bottom of my hill. That or timber bamboo.
Klick On This: I say if you haven’t visited our Police Museum on York, you should make that part of your rounds (it’s hysterical). Unfortunately we’ve lost the Southwest museum. A inexcusable heartbreaker.
Bellis: Heres a little more to bore them with. The signage on the Hi-Ho market (Meridian/Ave 64) with it’s mysterious reference to cheese and wine, is one of the early Trader Joes markets…that failed. The one exception where a small TJ parking lot wasn’t an issue.
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TJs should try again because the demographic has changed – I’d switch from the South Pas store if there’s a bigger car park. The church’s a copy of one in a village near Dorking, England. If I get there this April, I’ll send you a photo of it.
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I didn’t know that Bellis.
PA, that I did know, because I remember TJ’s when it mainly sold three things — wine, cheese, and nuts. that was before the mysterious german family bought the chain. (I still buy their wine and nuts, but they have some of the worst cheeses I’ve ever tasted. I think they’re second’s.)
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Now I’m really intrigued! I’m putting “police museum” on my list.
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Know anything about the once prolific spring on Springvale Drive? I’m trying to find it. Is it still there?
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Bellis: I think the Mister died while visiting England and the Mrs had his body shipped home and buried on the Church of Angels property (north west corner).
All the years I spent hanging out in the river channel with my horse, have I only recently realized that the storm drains are actually related to encased stream tributaries (thank you Creek Freak). I’ll look into that lead and maybe connect it to a upcoming post.
AH: I forgot to add “nuts”..nuts. Really about the cheeses? I guess being raised on cheeze whiz, cheet-o-s and plastic covered kraft slices didn’t lend itself to developing a sophisticated palate.
Klick on This: Go…and don’t forget to stop off at the cobbler to get your shoes fixed. York on the south side corner of Ave 64.
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Just wanted to comment on your admission of showing up in sandals to pour molten hot metal. Now that’s funny. I can’t even pour hot coffee without spilling it.
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Oh, this is a great tour, PA. I love driving around that area but I”ve never seen the walking path before. Cool!
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It is a lovely day in the neighborhood!
I lived at the top of 100 stairs in Silverlake for ten years, 1973-83, looked just like the ones in the Music Box movie; I’m glad your map shows those stairs, I’m going to check them out when I retire.
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We find out about music events at Church of The Angels because we are on mailing lists for many music groups and get threir emails. We were just there in December.
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I remember the old TJ’s too. You and I must be of the same vintage. ;)
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I also remember when the Northeast Police station was NOT a museum! I love that building. I’ve told this story before, but I talked to the Chief of the station to get into the Police Explorers (don’t remember how I got that honor, but my guy friends were impressed), graduated from the Police Academy (as an explorer) at the top of my class in academics (but I did pass the PE part too), drilled in the back, and went on an evening cruise & sort of stake-out in an unmarked car. Bet they don’t do that with explorers today.
PS – went by Station No. 5 & got a chance to show it to Ian. The art still impresses me to no end and he liked it very much too. Some of the birds-of-paradise are blooming, the golf course section seems complete.
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D: not nearly as funny as the sculpture that came out of it. Biggest thing they’d ever cast using some Hughs Aircraft casting process (Hughs and CS Long Beach: neighbors)
Laurie: No one uses it. It’s hard to know it’s there
Gail: I remember you telling me that once. And also how much you loved it.
Shanna: I once attended a performance of writer’s skits but it was at the Englishy house across the drive.
Tash: I remember too and lets not forget the Bob’s Big Boy across the street. Definitely the same vintage but probably playing for different bands. I was in my anti authority state by then (and difficult: ask Ramona). When I think of that time period and the Highland Park police I always think of the Hillside Stranglers. I was working at Ivers and riding about these hills on my horse. Such a frightening time.
Thanks on the murals…so they aren’t falling off the wall? Thats are greatest fear. You, Ian and guys who wear plaid are it’s audience.
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I’m a bit late with this one, but it occurred to me to ask if your coverage of galleries in the area includes Studio 50 Gallery?
The owner, Kathy Gallegos, is a former student of mine in Life Drawing. She has sessions at her gallery space with models. Also, many other terrific things.
P.S. Did you get my email? We have been having problems with our Internet connection.
(Jim’s sister didn’t get the one saying he was coming to the Bay Area last Saturday.)
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